Homer p



(No'Model.)

H. P. OLMSTEAD.

BUSTLE. N0. 368,106. Patented Aug. 9, 1887.

N. FETEFS. Phhlrrumngmpher.vwashingmn. D. C.

useful Improvement in Bustles, of which the UNITED V*STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HOMER P. OLMSTEAD, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

BUSTLE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Paten't No. 368,106, dated August 9, 1887.

` Application led April 27,'1BS6. Serial No. 200,266. (No model.)

To all whom, it may concern.- 1

Be it known that I, HOMER P.` OLMsTEAD of New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented a new and following is a specification.

In the manufacture of bustles the steels or bon `hich are employed as stiffeners are ordinarily held in place by pockets upon the innerside ofthe bustle-body', and extend either horizontally, or both horizontally and diagonally, as in long bustles. These steel or bone pockets are commonly formed by stitching what is termeda pocket-strip to the inner side of the bustle-body, and this pocket-strip at its ends is usually turned inward and sewed down, so as to form at the end of the pocket a guard for the end of the steel or bone. ln use, however, as there is but a single thickness of material at the end of the pocket-strip to shield the steel or bone, the fabric is soon worn out and the end of the steel or bone allowed to protrude.

The lobject of my invention is to provide a` simple and effective means for more thoroughly protecting the ends of the pocket-strips to prevent the steels or bones from wearing through, such means being secured upon the inner side of the body of the bustle and being entirely concealed from view by the body, and to this end my invention consists in an end-protection strip, which extends transversely to the pooketstrips and is folded longitudinally before itis stitched to the body, so as to form inner and outer iiaps or members to receive between them the ends of the pocketstrips and the steels or bones which the pocket-strips contain, the end-protectionstrips being secured to the body with both iiaps or members upon the inner side of the body and' entirely concealed from View by the body. This end-protection strip may be m-ade of a single piece or strip of webbing folded longitudinally; but I prefer to form it by first doubling the strip of fabric and folding such strip longitudinally, so as to give in boththe outer and inner fiaps or members of the end-protection strip a double thickness of fabric overlying and underlying the end'of the steel or bone, and which is additional to the thickness of fabric in the pocketstrip.

The invention also consists in other details of construction, all of which contemplate'the use of an end-protection strip ofthe kind above referred to, and which are hereinafter described, and pointedout in the claims.

' IIn the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is an inside view of a short bustle embodying my invention, a portion of the outer iiap or member 0f one ofthe end-protection strips being broken away to show more clearly the relation of these end-protection strips to the pocket-V strips. Fig. 2 is a horizontal section of a portion of the bustle shown in Fig. 1, taken, for example, on the plane of the dotted line x rv, Fig. I, andupon a larger scale. Fig. 3 represents the inside of a portion of a long bustle, such as is usually provided with apron-fronts at the opposite sides of the body, and which also embodies my invention, a portion of the outer flap or member of the end-protection strip being also removed. Fig. et is a horizontal section on the plane of the dotted line y y, Fig. 3, also upon a larger scale. Fig. 5 represents a sectional View of a piece of doubled fabric before it is folded to form the end-protection strip, and Fig. 6 represents such fabric after it is folded to form thc end-protection strip.

Similar letters of reference designate corre spending parts in all the figures.

I will iirst describe the bustle shown in Figs. 1 and 2. A designates the body, which mayv be made in any ordinary orsuitable way and of suitable material, and B designates what is ordinarily termed the eenter,7 whereby the bustle is given more or less projection, which may be varied bythe tapes or ties b. The bustle is provided with steels or bones c, such as are ordinarily used, and which are arranged within pocket-strips d, extending transversely across the inner side of the body A and stitched thereto at opposite edges.

The essential elements of my invention are end-protection strips C, which are attached one at each end of the pocketstrips d, and which extend upward and downward or transversely to the said pocket-strips, the endprotection strips being entirely upon the inner side of the body and concealed by the body. These end-protection strips are formed of a piece of webbing or fabric folded so as to con- ICO stitnte inner and outer flaps or members, e c'. The endprotection strips Care, however, preferably made of a double fabric, such as is shown in transverse section in Fig. 5, and which is afterward folded longitudinally, to give it the form shown in Fig. 6, and this construction I deem preferable, because by this a double thickness of fabric is obtained in the outer flap or member, c', outside the end portion of the pocket-strip d, which is inserted between the two flaps or members e e, as shown in the lower portion of Fig. l, where the outer flap or member, e', is broken away. The folded endprotection strip is first stitched to the body by a line of stitching, f, extending along close to the fold, and the inner edge of the inner fiap or member, c, is then sewed to the body by a line of stitching, f, after which the pocketstrips d are sewed on above the inner Hap or member, c. After the pocket-strips d are secured in place the final sewing of the end-pro teetion strip C is formed by lines of stitching f at some distance from the folded edge, and being carried around the ends of the pocketstrips d, as shown at f 3. Vhen thus constructed, the end portion ofthe pocket-strip d and the steel or bone c contained therein will be received or shielded within the folded strip of doubled fabric C, and the end of the steel or bone will be protected by six thicknesses of fabric or web, three thicknesses on each side of the steel or bone-namely, on the inside, or the side most distant from the body, by the single thickness of the pocket-strip and by the double thickness in the outer fiap or member, c', of the end-protection strip, and 011 the opposite side by the same double thickness in the inner flap, c, of the end-protection piece, and also the single thickness of the body of the bustle. In this example of my invention the outer iiap or member, e', of the folded strip Gis somewhat wider than the inner flap or member, e, and the portion of the outer flap or member, c', which is inward of the line of stitching f2, is left free, as shown in Fig. 2, and serves as a place of attachment for the straps of the adjustable center B.

In Figs. 3 and 4C I have represented a portion of what is usually known as a long bustle, A being the body,and A a portion ofthe apronfront, which is united to the body by a seam, 7i. This bustle not only has the pocket-strips d arranged horizontally for the horizontal steels or bones c, but it also has diagonal pocket-strips d', containing diagonal steels or bones c. In this example, also, the end portions of the pocket-strips d, and the steels or bones which they contain, are received bctween the inner and outer iiaps or members, e e', of an end-protection strip, C, which extends transversely to the pocket-strips d. This end-protection strip may also be made of a single piece of webbing; but I prefer to make it of apiece of fabric doubled and then folded longitudinally, as shown in Figs. 5 and G. The folded endprotection strip C is first secured to the body or to the apron at the front by a line of stitching, f', through both the inner and outer flaps, e c', and close to the folded edge, and the inner flap or member, e, is then secured by a line of stitching, f, to the body, and the pocket-strips d are sewed on over the inner fiap or member; and, finally, the securing of the end-protection strip Gis completed by a line of stitching, f2, similar to that before described with reference to Fig. ll, which passes through both the inner and outer ilaps or members and around the ends ofthe pocketstrips d, as shown at f3. In this example of my invention, however, the adjustable center is not attached directly to the end-protection strips C, and the outer fiap or member, c', is therefore made narrower than the inner flap or member, e, and the line ofstitcl1ingf2,wl1ich passes through the outer flap or member, c', is near the edge thereof.

It will be observed that in the bustle shown in Fig. 3 the end-protection strip Ccovers the seam L, whereby the apron-front is united to the body, and hence this need not be made a felled seam, as is usual.

From the foregoing description it will be seen that according to my invention the endproteetion strips C have both their flaps or members c c secured upon the inner side of the body, and hence the end-protection strip is entirely concealed by the body, and the body and apron-front are not impaired in appear ance by the exposure ou their outer surface of any portion of the end-protection strip.

I am aware of Letters Patent No. 188,092, granted March 6, 1877, to T. C. Barclay, and I do not claim as of myinventiou the construction thercin shown. In that patent the body of the bustle has applied to it an edgebinding, one fold or flap of which is upon the inner side of the body and the other fold or fiap of which is upon the outer side of the body.

I'Vhat I claim as my invention,and desire to secure by Letters Iatent, is-

1. In a bustle, the combination, with a body and pocket-strips sewed to the body, of folded end-protection strips extending transversely to the pocket-strips and receiving between their flaps or members the end portions of the pocket-strips and the steels or bones which said pocketstrips contain, the end-protection strips being secured with both flaps or members on the inner side of the body and being concealed from view by the body, substantially as herein described.

2. In a bustle, the combination, with a body and pocket-strips cl, sewed to the body, of endprotection strips C, extending transversely to the pocket-strips and composed of a double fabric folded lengthwise to form the outer and inner flaps or folds, e c', which receive between them the end portions of the pocket-strips and the steels or bones which they contain, the

end-protection.strips being secured to the body with both flaps or folds on the inner side of IOO tro

the body and being concealed from view by the body, substantially as and for the purpose herein described.-

3. In a bustle, the combination, with a body and pocketstrips d, sewed to the body, and an apron-front extending beyond the body, of end-protection strips extending transversely to the pocket-strips and folded longitudinally to form inner and outer iaps or folds,e e,which receive between them the end portions of the pocket-strips and the steels or bones which they contain,the end-protection strips be-ingsecured to the body with both the folds on the inner side thereof, at the junction of the body and apron-front, substantially as herein described.

4. In a bustle, the combination, with a body and pocket-strips d, sewed to the body, of endprotection-stri ps extending transversely to the pocketstrips and folded longitudinally to form inner and outer foldsA or members, e e', receiving between them the end portions of the pocket-strips and the steels or bones which they contain, the end-protection'` strips being l secured to the body with both folds or members on theinner side of and concealed by the body, and the adjustable center, the straps of which are connected directly with the ap e of the end-protection strip, substantially as herein described.

5. In a bustle, the combination, with a body and pocket-strips d, sewed to the body, of the end-protection strips extending transversely to the pocket-strips and folded longitudinally to form inner and outer aps or members e e, which receive between them the end portions of the pocket-strips and the steels or bones which they contain, the end-protection strips being secured to the body with both flaps or members upon the inner side of the body, by lines of stitching through the inner flap or member, and by the lines of stitching ffthrongh both fiaps or members at,t he fold and around the ends of the pocket-strips, sub stantially4 as herein described.

HOMER I. OLMSTEAD.

Witnesses:

FREDK. HAYNEs, HENRY MCBRIDE. 

